Gothic culture began to develop in the UK sometime in the 1980s: leather dresses, lace corset tops, Victorian shirts, high gloves, Mary Jane platform shoes, Creepers, bipedal boots with metal details in all black, smoky eyeliner and dark lipstick. These days, of course, things have changed somewhat, and this particular trend has been redefined (see the collections of the godfather of gothic glam, Rick Owens). The aesthetic of the gothic is not only manifested in an all-black outfit. Particular attention is paid to design, in sharp and edgy designs, in textures like vinyl or velvet, and in style. This is the overall gloomy mood that the outfit exudes.
Gothic style is reimagined in the FW22 collections.
AT Fall/Winter 2022 the gothic style had its meaning. Many designers have made it the hallmark of their collections. Most importantly, they didn’t present it as just another trend. They respected (so to speak) the backstory and lifestyle of the goth scene. We saw clothes to capture his dark – fragile – romanticism and at the same time exude dynamism. It has been redefined with voluminous lines, leather bodysuits, point-shouldered vinyl coats, silky textures, leather maxi skirts, ruffles and tulle details.
As to the reason why this aesthetic relives its moments of glory, the answer is given by Andrew Groves, professor of fashion design at the University of Westminster, in a Guardian article entitled “Back to black: goths go mainstream in corsets, leather and lace”. According to him, the emergence of a new Gothic style is explained very simply. Is next-generation answer to Instagram’s flawless and filtered goodness last years. And in my humble opinion, yes, is a response to this (urgent) need to wear bright colors after the pandemic. Maybe, in the end, happy clothes lead to a more rebellious and darker mood. Time will tell.
Yes, goth goes mainstream when you see (fortunately or unfortunately) Kim Kardashian wearing it. But there are also bright moments when you see it, for example in Emma Corrin. It’s all about perspective. If you’re a fan and want to update your (already) gothic style, below are some of the hottest outfits from the runway. OUR Morticia Addams she would be proud.
From Marc Jacobs
to Christopher Kane
New gothic style at Raf Simons
IN THE PHILOSOPHY OF DI LORENZO SERAFINI AND PORTOV 1961
Source: Lady Like