Whether it’s Balmain’s oceanic show or Chloé’s laser show, here in Paris one word is in the air: sustainability. Too bad fashion week is the most “unsustainable” there is, starting with the biblical moves from one part of town to another, the more complicated sets and at least the amount of clothes on offer despite recycling. It is certain that all companies are catching up with regulations when a Olivier Rousteinga stylist with a sensitivity more unique than rare, guides her Balmain with a statement underlining how much he has been affected by the effects of climate change this summer, but then, at the end of a day of about ten shows and many more travel hours, puts on a veritable festival of 7,000 people and a show with more than 120 onions, a little is not right. In any case, the impression that everything is always much, too much. It’s a reflection and everyone would have happily sat there for hours admiring the designer’s work, then you’re also paying for the final surprise of Cher coming out singing Believe. We just have to believe in it. That Rousteing for example, has used ecological and even recycled fabrics and that everything from the collection of cotton to the smallest straw is of certified origin. The “Renaissance” calls it the French designer who takes the help of that era by stealing a few shapes (broad hips, bustiers, round shoulders) and colors and prints (sixteenth century painting) and brutalizing everything for an allure “Used ” and primitive (including cork wedge), creating more and more nature.

Also from Chloe everything revolves around the reflection on the planet and the hope and response in the merger, understood as the recreation that takes place in all the stars. the stylist Gabriela Hearst and his team, they say, researched the topic by identifying a project (the ITER), supporting it, and thinking about the meaning of unity. So there is an installation on the catwalk by the artist Paolo Montiel Coppa which symbolically interprets fusion with light. The collection then finds its permanent “sustainable” center and focuses on recycled cotton jeans and laser washes and on the white version without bleaching. Spectacular flared trousers, especially cork wedge sandals.

From Acne ten years of Paris is celebrated with a very kitschy but very fun and breezy wedding between see-through dresses in tulle and bows, jumpsuits with veils, very thin knit suits, draped silk jersey and oversized masculine jackets. For there is the bride, but there are also the guests.

Schiaparelli and the prèt à porter is a dichotomy that Daniel Roseberry has decided to tackle in his own way, with a great artistic sense and contemporary vision. “Schiap’s dress is not everyday life, it’s true. But it is to such an extent that it becomes exceptional, special ». And from couture to ready-made is a moment, without losing sight of the recognizable signs: suits and dresses and sweaters have surrealistic accents (mouth and eye embroidery and jewellery) but materials and wearability actually make them “ready for use.” “. “.