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Thursday, June 8, 2023

Gucci shines at the court of Frederick II

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The music and voices of the astronauts from the moon landing begin, and the valley of theAlta Murgia has a kick: the show Gucci Cosmogonie, a rave in clothes and sounds, shakes souls, the earth, the trees, the moon and the stars. The dresses with an unmistakable mix & match of layers of eras and emotions and dreams sparkle under the full moon. And Castel del Montea, the most enigmatic Italian mansion, seems to awaken from that isolated sleep in which the man who created it, that Frederick II, who lived on reason and happiness, immediately condemned him, perhaps to protect or venerate him, more likely . How to be surprised then if? Alessandro Michelethe designer thirsty for truth and mysteries, wanted to present the new collection here?

Castel del Monte where the Gucci show took place

All Puglia involved because the Maneskin and Elle and Dakota Fanning, Jannik Sinner and Emma Marrone, co

n stormed hotels and boys and girls did everything they could to be at the show and/or afterparty where Damiano and his people sang to bring down the world of the universe.
Kind of like a hundred and one off. Suggestion after suggestion, between the sacred and the profane: Anni shoulders Thirties and Forties in the manner of Greta Garbo (“A quote that happened to me while I was working on the show,” explains Michele); framed necks and heads (“as I always love”); bondage boots; sequins galore (“I love the sparkle, the reflections, the sparkle that always gives different shapes”); hoods and coats; disturbing sheath dresses and baby dolls (“a hymn to naked blankets”); pants and vest; chiffon and trains; prelate hats and mouth jewelry. Colors in freedom or solemn and tragic darkness An impressive work of research and connections. Glorified in the finale with a carousel under the dark sky and the constellations projected on the castle walls.

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One of the looks from the Gucci Cosmogonie fashion show

“Fashion isn’t just a piece: it needs knowledge. It needs shapes, colors, attitudes and stories. They are magical encounters of objects and people, in a kind of cosmic design,” says the creative who believes in signs and stars. Then here is the castle of Frederick II (“A character I’ve always loved: the Apuliawith him, she was like a Silicone Valley“) Which may have been a mausoleum or a hunting lodge or an astronomical observatory, but which today is the heritage ofUNESCO(“A funnel between the earth and the sky”); and here’s the full moon following the eclipse for a few hours (“we didn’t know about this coincidence”); then the stones and the octagonal shapes (“they’re magical sizes like my jackets”). All signs for Michele. Linked to the territory, but not alone. The title Cosmogony to enclose the meaning, no doctrine excluded: “My job is to assemble the constellations. Like the story I’m telling you about press release

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A lot of flashes again in the collection of Alessandro Michele

Yes, another sign: the stories of Hannah Arendt on friend Walter BenjaminJewish exiles, with destinies crossed but with different endings: the second committed suicide to escape the Gestapo after the confiscation of his library. “How could he make a living for himself without the long collections of quotes and excerpts?” Arendt wondered in a text. And here’s the connection to Michele’s work: «It’s not just being a tailor or couturier, or serving a wealthy client who has to go to the cocktail party. Nowadays, putting together a collection tells you what your idea of ​​the world is. Fashion has exploded and is no longer a hieroglyph for the elite. It is once again at the service of life ». Profitability came later: “The truth is that if it weren’t for us, you and the fashion shows, fashion would still exist, because we would continue to dress. So I feel a bit like an orchestra conductor ».

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The Maneskin guests of the show and then protagonists of the afterparty

So with the Maneskins: «Working with people in show business is fascinating. For me then…that I’m a failed costume designer. There is a mutual exchange, which always amazes me ». Kind of like the guys from Andria who, angry at the lack of giant screens in the square, staged a counter-parade: “dei MingucciThat’s the surname of the place. These are also positions.

Source: Corriere

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